Monday: The Bluetooth GPS receiver arrives.
I stink at schematics. Basically all the ground wires can be wired up together. The green USB data wires go together and the white USB wires go together. The parts list:
- Pengiun Mints tin.
- (2) USB risers or other female USB ports.
- 7805 voltage regulator.
- 1 9V battery and clip
- Solder, soldering iron, heat-shrink tube, Dremel, drill, and other spare bits.
I cheated on soldering the regulator and used an extra female 3-wire motherboard fan connector. It snapped right in and if I ever need to replace the regulator I can do so in minutes with no soldering. Here's an image of me testing polarity and voltage:
After that, it's just a matter of careful wire stripping, soldering, and patient assembly:
Cutting the ports. Use the USB blanking plate and a sharp instrument to mark out the areas then cut them out with a drill and Dremel. Make sure you have room for your battery.
When holding the tin, watch where your fingers are on the other side of the drill. This actually hurts a lot more than it looks.
Find someplace to mount your regulator so it's not flopping around. I just used a motherboard riser and little bolt to attach it to the lid of my tin.
This image is only to show that the data wires go straight through. Solder them up and insulate them with heat-shrink tube.
Here it is all assembled:
A close-up:
Gratuitous images:
It works like a charm. Here are some power readings taken right from the 9V line (in case you wanted to measure wattage.)
- Circuit baseline: 4.62 mA
- With Nokia: 5.20 mA
- With Keyboard: 10.23 mA
- With keyboared and CapsLock light: 23.03 mA
- With iPod with backlight: 262.3 mA
- With iPod nano without backlight: 200.6 mA
**UPDATE**
I added a switch and a power LED. The LED is a 12V so it's underpowered for this. Should last for a good long time. It's patch in directly with the +9V and GND of the regulator. The switch is directly on the +9V feed, between the battery and the regulator. I put some Sharpie over the switch because the bronze didn't look good bare.
35 comments:
Thanks Glasner.
I did not know that ... I fixed it.
the 3-way fan connector is a neat idea, got one somewhere... my bits are still sitting in a maplins bag. i think i am right in saying that only one end can be host (and thus the other is peripheral) otherwise you are injecting -5v. nb a 7805 +5v voltage regulator has a 2v dropoff so if supplied with less than 7v it stops regulating ie it can feed 6.5v through the circuit - undesirable; you should therefore not use a 7.2v rechargeable battery. as the maximum voltage which can be used is about 35v then two (2x7.2v or 2x9v or 1x9v) batteries can be used. now if only they sold those caffeinated penguin mints in the uk
Man, this penguin box is a must. The biggest problem I have with my proejet is finding a box that will fit all the stuff and not look bigger than the N770 itself... guess I should pay the candystore a visit. Nice hack using the fan conector, I'd never thought of that.
Have you try to connect a 2.5" USB hard drive? Does your USB Power Injector provide enough current to work it properly?
tanks x all your great tips
Roby
nb a 7805 +5v voltage regulator has a 2v dropoff so if supplied with less than 7v it stops regulating ie it can feed 6.5v through the circuit - undesirable; you should therefore not use a 7.2v rechargeable battery.
What a complete load of tosh, supplying a 7805 undervoltage will do nothing of a sort. Go and read a 7805 datasheet.
PP.
Tried your power injector with an iPod (5th gen, 60 GB) and a Seagate 40GB external USB drive (powered only by the USB power injector) -- both worked great.
Also tried powering my USB GPS (Haicom HI-204S) and running Gpsdrive (data from gpsd), which also worked!
Gpsdrive packages from here:
http://www.elisanet.fi/tapio.tolvanen/nokia770.html
boooo hooooo you got a fucken scratch tough up! j/k i read you blog everytime!
hahaha djorange
IT HURT!
There's STILL a scratch on that finger. It was pretty deep since the drill tip went right in. Ow.
ok this is very interesting to me as my usb ports decided to fry. apparently a cheapo hub i had did damage to them and they supply no power. since i believe if i take it to be fixed it will cost an arm and a leg and thats not worth it, i thought of using your idea. how about using output voltage from the PS/2 port (rated at 5v if im not mistaken) to the device you built instead of a battery, and ommit the resistor as well as it wont need it, to bring power back to my usb ports? weird thing is i can connect a printer, and my PDA (dell axim x50v) on those ports and they communicate, apparently the power supply fried for them.
good job
I have a few recommendations, to help make the battery last longer
first off, a 9v is pretty crappy - its really 6 aaa batteries wired in series, wrapped in a metal shell - so lots of internal resistance to work through.
Option a) Look at using a 2 or 3 CR123a disposiable lithium batteries and something called a 5.3v zener diode. The zener will only let 5.3v through, holding back the excess - it should work well for any load up to 500mA or so. If the extra .3 volts worries anyone, place a schottky diode in series with the output, it will 'drop' that 0.3 volts
Option b) Again 2 or 3 CR123a batteries, and an LM2937 LDO regulator (looks the same as your 7805). The 2937 'wastes' only 0.5v compared to approx 2v by the 7805, so it will squeeze more energy out of the batteries, before going into low voltage shutdown.
Option c) This one is really exotic, but its how the 'big boys' do it in the industry - its called a switch mode power supply, specificly a boost converter. Check out the TPS61040 from Texas Inst. You feed it 1.8-6volts, and it gives you 5v (or up to 28v) output. So you could power your 5v usb devices with a single 3v CR123A battery (or pair of AA alkaline or NiMH rechargables).
Hello,
I am trying your 770 hack. But I wondered why the n770 needed to be powered by its peripheric.
Thank,
NaPs.
naps:
This is all explained in the first paragraph here:
http://thoughtfix.blogspot.com/2006/01/no-solder-usb-host-method.html
Okay, thanks... :)
To do the power trick, all you need is a stand-alone USB hub with a wall wart and a USB-type A to USB mini adapter. Open up the hub, jumper the DC to the outgoing connnector, and you're done.
Where did you get the usb risers from ? I haven't been able to find them locally (i.e. compusa, radio shack...) also I'm in scottsdale how can I contact you directly ?
The specs for USB say 4.75 to 5.25 volts. My own plan is to use 4 AA NiMH batteries [these put aout between 1.2 and 1.3 volts each for a total of 4.8-5.2 V] ( which I can recharge with a solar charger) with a 5.3 V zener accross the output. I may also put a cut off circut in line to turn off power when it drops below spec.
The zener is only to prevent problems incase someone puts disposible batteries in.
Would a self-powered off-the-shelf USB Hub work? For those who don't know how to solder and stuff....
I finally finished mine and it actally works! However, some apps ike Notes or Email do not work with the usb keyboard. Furthermore, the Enter key brings up the on screen keyboard. Has this been anyone elses experience?
Just wanted to say thanks for posting the instructions for the usb injector.
I just finished making your usb injector and works fine for me. However, I do have the same keyboard problem as Kapernicus, i.e. the enter key toggles the keyboard. Does anyone have any work around for this one.
Ok, I guess I dug deep enough and found the solution to my problem and Kapernicus problem. the short answer is that
the command "maemo-gtk-im-switch xim" (enables external input) and the command
"maemo-gtk-im-switch osso-input-method"
(disables external input) the solution is in post:
http://maemo.org/pipermail/maemo-developers/2006-November/006407.html
Wouldn't this commercially available battery powered usb hub work just as well?
http://www.cyberpowersystems.com/CPH420MP.asp
Is this power injector needed on the Nokia 800 device as well and do you have a better drawing showing how you wired the switch and light?
Thansk
Ken
I would love to see the new model. Also, shouldn't there be a way to take the 5V coming from the 770 and pipe it right back in?
I don't know if anyone else was thinking about it, but I might draw up a circuit that includes a rechargable battery and uses the 770's charger as a power/recharger. This way you get the portability with the battery but could also run it off the wall as well and no need to replace batteries all the time. I'd also do a PCB layout too. When I get them done I'll be sure to post.
I just picked up a 770 on woot last week and before I even saw this post I was working on a design for one. The design concept is:
A) must feed 5V (using the 7805 Voltage regulator)
B) Can be connected to a car for long trip video watching off the ipod (diode to prevent back voltage)
C) Will not drop voltage when the car drops AUX power on start (storage capacitor)
Schematic
The diode can be anything really, just make sure you don't back feed the battery. Use ohm's law to calculate the resistor based off the current from your LED. S1 = switch one. Once I put it together a prototype I will make an actual parts list. There is no reason for this not to work.
Yeah... It works. And well too.
can anyone give me a complete schematic for wiring everything including LED and Switch. I don't have a volt meter or spare 150 dollars for a new N770.
Hi people someone ask for pcb and schematic, so here it goes , any doubts just say
http://img519.imageshack.us/my.php?image=schematicmw4.png
schematic
http://img240.imageshack.us/my.php?image=placadb1.jpg
components
http://www.mediafire.com/?9mdjhei9odh
PCB in SVG format
the idea is to put or the lighter charger to suply the circuit or the 9v batery
Coments please
Hi, this is a great mod. I'm only halfway through my own modded version and am in no way a Linux expert. I am curious about how you find the external hard drive once you've wired it all up.
So you plug your 770 into your makeshift hub and it recognizes it... but where in the file system does it show up? Is it under Root/media/mmc2 or somewhere else? If it's somewhere else is it also possible to make a hard link in the file manager to that location with a command like ln -s {location}?
Any info is much appreciated.
Got two, hopefully quick, questions that I was hoping you could answer.
First off, this will give me two powered female usb ports. For the n770 I need to use an adapter from the female ports in the tin to the smaller usb port on the n770. Do I have to worry about getting a specific adapter so that it will transfer power?
Secondly, do you know of a good place to pick up USB risers like the ones you have? I am trying to price this out and see how much cheaper it is to build this than purchasing the cables in your other blog entry.
Could you make one of these for me? How much would you charge? I do not have all the necessary skills but I need one for a typing glove I am working on.
hmmm . . .I need to rig up one of these to try and get my n800 talking to my arduino decimilia. Ia there any reason I can't replicate the setup illustrated with a type a male to type b male usb cable, and just wire the 9va and 7805 into the middle?
This idea is great. But I have improved on it. I just built a 4 port hub Using the same basic idea. Now to fide a case that will do it justice. Any one need to know how I did it can E-mail me @ JepensedoucJsuis@aim.com
do you seel one for me? :)
i have n800 and wants to plug my usb modem
smyows at youare_not_br
thanks
How did you insert extra wires into the 3 pin fan connector? In the pic with the switch and LED it goes from having been only 3 wires to around 5.
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